Machu Picchu

11/3/11

Dear Everyone,

            I have returned alive from the twenty-three mile (four day) hike up the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu. I am sure you will all be pleased to hear that I did not cry, I did not scream “I hate you” at anyone, and I caused no one any bodily harm. Only twice was my backpack confiscated because I was going too slowly.  Perhaps I would have enjoyed the actual archeological site more, if upon arrival my legs hadn’t stopped working. At the top, I felt a strong animosity towards women wearing makeup, and skinny jeans, with their hair all done up. Clearly, these women had taken the train. I will admit that I am a complete hypocrite, because I myself would have done anything to be allowed to take the train.

            Although the hike was strenuous, I do love camping, and really enjoyed the people I met along the way.  Our guide, Wilder, taught himself English by reading the same books in English (with his dictionary by his side) over and over again. I was incredibly impressed. Perhaps this was cruel, but I even worked the word “colloquialism” into the conversation to really test his English. Wilder answered in such a way that I was positive that he knew what I meant.  Wilder and I spent a lot of time together, as it was his job to take up the back. I was always in the back.

            What frustrated Wilder the most, was our refusal to put on bugspray. He kept telling us we were going to be eaten alive, and just didn’t get it. After Los Naranjos, I’m not sure I will ever need bugspray again.  I just kept saying to him, “what bugs?” It was almost as funny as when we went to the chocolate place in Cusco, and knew more about cocoa than our tour-guide. I think he might have been close to tears by the end.

            It was funny how we’d see the random people who kept our same pace over and over again. For instance, we’d see a mother-daughter pair from San Diego at least four times a day. Our first interaction with them was hilarious. Not realizing how loud I was speaking (due to having my headphones in,) I commented to Kelsey how I “better get a butt out of this.” From the corner of my eye, I saw the mother laughing and nodding her head. I awkwardly waved in that “I’ve just embarrassed myself kind of way.” Then, still speaking too loudly, I commented to Michelle how I would “kill for some almonds or cashews right now.” Her daughter whipped out a bag of trail mix and offered it to us. Of course we honored the American custom of refusing it the first time, but she convinced us with, “I’ve got so much extra,” and “it’s from San Diego.” I’m not sure if it made my day simply because of my nut craving, or because it made me feel mothered so many miles from home, but either way it made my day.

            We saw the mother-daughter pair the next day, which was Halloween, and they gave us lollipops.  That was the extent of my trick-or-treating, but at least it was something.  To make sure the holiday did not go unnoticed, the entire group covered ourselves in Halloween tattoos during lunch. With the extras, we proceeded to cover the wykees. They seemed to get a huge kick out of it. To celebrate, they even surprised us with a cake after dinner! It was pretty good, considering they made it in a pot.

            I guess I should take a minute to explain the wykees, literally translated in their native tongue of Quechua as “friends.” On our hike, the wykees were our porters, carrying our food and tents up the mountain. We had seventeen!  I think it’s interesting that on a trip focused on social justice, men wearing nothing but sandals were paid 170 soles (about $70 bucks) to lug our baggage up a mountain for four days. But perhaps that’s just me.

            My favorite part of the hike came on the second day. I was completely alone, listening to Simon and Garfunkel, climbing down two hours worth of steps, surrounded entirely by fog.  It’s always nice to get alone time on this trip, and I cannot imagine anything more peaceful.

            Exciting news!  I received an e-mail from Wilmer (Ben and Andrew’s homestay brother.) I know, Wilmer and Wilder, what is this, Anna Karenina? This means I have a way to communicate with Carolina and Victor! It also helped cure my Los Naranjos homesickness. I’m not sure how he e-mailed me. There’s no Internet in Los Naranjos. But he’s the first community member to be attending college (next year,) so I guess he has access to more than the rest. It was a pretty hilarious e-mail.
“Hello Katherine, haw are yuo? I am Wilmer Aguavil of the comunidy Tsa chila los Naranjos.” Although I knew he understood some English, I had never heard him speak it before.  I’m not sure which language to reply in.

            So today we leave for China, taking the direct route from Cusco to Lima, Lima to San Jose, San Jose to LAX, LAX to Shanghai, and Shanghai to Kunming. I should only lose about three days of my life. I’m not so sad to be leaving Peru. I mean, what kind of country gives you counterfeit money from an ATM? And of course I could not be more excited for China!

Love,

Katherine